Fashion Week Favorites - Milan A/W 2017

Alberta Ferretti



Alberta Ferretti is always whimsical and magical and fanciful and everything romantic. Here, there was a bit of mystery: the wide brimmed hats, the masquerade masks, the overwhelming coats. The drama is heavier, the colors are deeper, more serious.

Emilio Pucci



I'm going to say it: I'm kind of glad Peter Dundas isn't at Pucci anymore. I was getting a little tired of the same sexed up girl walking down that runway. This collection by Massimo Giorgetii feels like classic, classic Pucci. But of course, with those new and crazy fringes on everything you don't need them on. Like your hat or your shoes. I come for the prints and color clashing at Pucci. And I stayed just for that.

Lucio Vanotti



Lucio Vanotti is a bit of a breath of fresh air at Milan. While overwhelmed with the goddesses at Versace and the history and classicism at Dolce and Gabbana and Gucci, Vanotti is stripped down to the basics, something new and fresh and footloose (literally) and fancy free. All of it is so damn easy. But it takes a lot of effort to look this effortless. For instance, that all black suit was tailored to perfection for the love of details and a great, loose fit. It may look like it was all chucked on but there's an art to throwing something on and having it look this good.

MaxMara



Always come back to the comfies, especially at MaxMara. I like the idea of wearing all one color but just in different shades. It's easy; throw on all one color, all of your coziest clothes and you're out the door. Nothing else to report except that I want to keep a mental note of this particular idea.

Trussardi



You don't see a lot of layering in these "bohemian" styled collections. I'm sure calling Trussardi's collection "bohemian" is a cop out, but there are some late 60s influences here, some 70s influences from the pant suit and the cognac gloves. I like the mix of English country side as well. Lots of florals, beanies, the roll necks, the little riding boots, and the loafers.

Vionnet



That first gown reminds me of a skirt I had when I was a kid. It's sort of faded from my memory at this point, like trying to remember a dream at the end of the day. But the colors are what's reminding me of it all. There's some nostalgia here, as always with Vionnet since it's such a richly historic brand. I'm always reminded of elegance and classicism without being too boring or irrelevant or too in the past at Vionnet.

Rossella Jardini



If I am not this chic lady when I'm older then something went wrong. Number one, this presentation is great. Just casually photographing an elderly art gallery owner, living in New York City for decades. She owns tons of vintage clothing and lounges in the first look. She's an eccentric, obviously, look at that pink blouse. This is why I love fashion. There's a story here and I can create a character and live in a fantasy for a minute.

Fashion Week Favorites - London A/W 2017

Alena Akhmadullina



Luxurious velvets and lace are always good for the colder seasons for some reason. There's something romantic about them, something very cool-it-girl living in London about it. Not sure who or what makes me think this but damn are these clothes beautiful. I like seeing granny-chic pieces (I actually hate that term): the heavy coats with silly designs on them, the pussy bow blouses, capes, and more lace.

Burberry



At first I thought, is Christopher Bailey still at Burberry? Because this doesn't look like "typical" Chris Bailey. AKA reworked trench coats in plastic or some strange fabric, tons of cool accessories, a blast of colors...This is paired back, comfy, simple, and PERFECT. It was so hard to pick just three looks for Burberry this season. And the simple color palette! Just grey, ecru, beige, and white. Sure the color is fun for winter when our environments are void of the rainbow but there's something cozy about matching the snow.

Erdem



Back to the granny-chic! This time Erdem is giving me art historian vibes. The prints on the velvet dresses and coats (and shoes!) make me think this girl mirrored her clothes after the paintings she spends hours looking at.

Gareth Pugh



The Nine Inch Nails and Marilyn Manson lover inside of me LOVES Gareth Pugh. For when I want to bring out my inner goth, I can always count on something wild and creepy from Pugh. However, this wasn't as wild as usual (I remember seeing the most angular pieces on the runway years ago from Gareth Pugh and thinking about how no one got injured trying to dress the models). I like the minimal and dramatic approach this time around: a massive fur coat a la a Yeti. Or a pair of the longest pants that are as black as the sky on a moonless night. Or (!) a larger than life, overwhelming, floor length coat/dress. It's all so demanding and I love it.

J. JS Lee



The attention to comfort designers are giving this season is everything! There's room to breath, room to wiggle. I wonder why this is though. I always think about what's going on in society that makes designers react the way they do. Is it because of Trump? Brexit? Are we so uncomfortable with our daily lives and every gross thing going on around the world that we need some extra coziness from our clothes? I think so. And at J. JS Lee, there's gonna be fun and lighthearted colors, tied scarves, and fabrics that'll make your baby's blanket jealous.

Le Kilt



On the opposite side of the spectrum, Le Kilt is reminding me of This Is England (of which I deeply miss and will forever love). 2009 me loves leopard print creepers and skirts and plaid and tartan and all black and the primary colors and tights and Doc Martens. I basically love the nostalgia here and love that this isn't particularly on trend.

Pringle of Scotland



And back to the comfies! We can always count on Pringle of Scotland for the cozies. Nothing massive to report here, just that I need that first look's cardigan. It looks like someone shaved a sheep, cut it in a basic textile, sewed some cool buttons on it then threw it on the model. And I say that in a good way. And hello, oversized roll necks? I'm down. I just hope Tennessee weather will permit me to wear these chunky silhouettes next season.

Temperley London



I've expressed my love for a good contrast on here many, many times. Here is no exception. The dainty dress on the first model mixed with casual flats and that crazy mouth print is ace. And the classic glittery, flirty skirt paired with an oversized turtle neck. But this knit has some shape to it - which is a good, unexpected detail.

Victoria Victoria Beckham



I like Victoria Victoria Beckham better than her main line. The shapes are more interesting - over at Victoria Beckham it's sort of the same thing each time: a shapeless dress over knee high boots with gloves...something like that. Some color blocking. Very streamlined. And it's a look, don't get me wrong. But the goods are over at VVB. The layering, first of all, is so delicious. And the shades of grey are making me want to set my pinks and blues aside and focus on what so many people might call a boring color. Lastly, I never care too much for graphics on tops. But here it's a minimal and quite cute doodle of some ladies.

Fashion Week Favorites - New York City A/W 2017

Calvin Klein Collection



This is Americana. When I think of American fashion, I think of Ralph Lauren and Calvin Klein. Seeing as Raf Simons is Belgian by birth and French by aesthetic, I was curious to see his take on the iconic American brand. Of course there's the obvious details of the American flag wrap skirt (so elegantly draped underneath the floral duster coat), the cowboy boots on guys and gals, and the denim on denim looks. But there's also the colors. The primaries and their friends were mainly used: red, blue, yellow, green; and somehow that seems very American. Maybe because it's simple and America was supposed to be a simple country: speak whatever language you please, pray to whomever god you chose. And the quilted coats. Oh my gosh I need one. There's even something very Americana about that too. It feels very Betsy Ross, somehow? I feel like she'd sew up a mean quilt for obvious reasons. I'm also drooling over the very literal quilted lining in the men's jackets.

Cinq à Sept



Slowly becoming one of my most looked forward to shows during the fashion month, Cinq à Sept showed a wonderfully kitsch collection. Part sexy librarian with the cardigans, part Instagram model with the fishnets. Seventeen year old me wouldn't believe I'm saying this but I love the idea of chucking on socks underneath sandals, on top of tights, throw on a floral skirt, and mix match a sweater. There's something calming about wearing all of your favorite pieces all at once. I've been reading Man Repeller for too long.

Ulla Johnson



This is CHIC to me. I need to own a velvet jumpsuit with a plunging neck line. You can lounge in it for the ultimate Absolutely Fabulous moment or wear it out at night. Actually that's what I love about the majority of Ulla Johnson's collection. Gotta look glamorous but comfort is just as much an important priority.

Jill Stuart



Give me dark, give me Gothic, give me slight Edwardian. As much as I love pink and cream and chiffon, I do love a bit of navy blue, black, blood red, and lots and lots of velvet and lace. It's hard not to make 19th century fashion look costume-y or over the top. But at Jill Stuart, there's a lady of the night kind of vibe. And there's something so sexy about these clothes even when there's zero skin showing. That's power.

Alexander Wang



This feels like pure A-Wang to me. It's reminding me of his 2009/2010 collections. All black and very dramatic, not a lot of a sports wear influence. It's sexy, it's boyish, young, and dramatic. The Alexander Wang girl could definitely mess you up. And here I feel like she's a little more grown up than the girl in the past collections. Sportswear is a young person's game. So now she's wearing a tailored blazer, button downs, sexy, sky high leather boots. Wang as matured and so has his lady.

Dennis Brasso



Fur is sexy, okay. Yes, the first thing on my mind should have been oh is that real? But it wasn't, alright. It was wow this is sexy. It's been done over and over again: the 40s vibe with the satin and the fur and the slinky dress thing. But I don't know, I'm not tired of it yet. Throw in a very on trend piece with the fishnet tights (in blacks, nudes, and reds) and re-work it into a turtle neck and it's brought up to today. And, hello, I love maps. Look at that map dress.

Naeem Khan



I like the idea of this being a hodge podge of a collection. Like a chic granny threw on all of her iconic pieces. Because there's something elderly about this collection. It's sexy without showing a lot of skin (save for that topless look - but that suit is classic). It's got a maturity to it. A 20-something woman generally wouldn't wear a floor length, one shoulder, red gown with a cape with layers of pearls. These ladies have years behind them and I like seeing that in New York amongst all of the Jeremy Scotts and Rodartes.

Samuji



Despite all of what I said just above, the youthful energy at Samuji is very interesting. I feel like this is how bloggers and Instagrammers are dressing. You've got your token velvet pieces, your oversized sweaters, the ironic beret/beanie, a slouchy t-shirt and a glittery pair of rock 'n roll pants. The entire collection feels like I stepped inside of a young, trendy, Scandinavian blogger's wardrobe and no, I'm tired of seeing that.