28 February 2017

Fashion Week Favorites - Milan A/W 2017

Alberta Ferretti

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Alberta Ferretti is always whimsical and magical and fanciful and everything romantic. Here, there was a bit of mystery: the wide brimmed hats, the masquerade masks, the overwhelming coats. The drama is heavier, the colors are deeper, more serious.

Emilio Pucci

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I'm going to say it: I'm kind of glad Peter Dundas isn't at Pucci anymore. I was getting a little tired of the same sexed up girl walking down that runway. This collection by Massimo Giorgetii feels like classic, classic Pucci. But of course, with those new and crazy fringes on everything you don't need them on. Like your hat or your shoes. I come for the prints and color clashing at Pucci. And I stayed just for that.

Lucio Vanotti

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Lucio Vanotti is a bit of a breath of fresh air at Milan. While overwhelmed with the goddesses at Versace and the history and classicism at Dolce and Gabbana and Gucci, Vanotti is stripped down to the basics, something new and fresh and footloose (literally) and fancy free. All of it is so damn easy. But it takes a lot of effort to look this effortless. For instance, that all black suit was tailored to perfection for the love of details and a great, loose fit. It may look like it was all chucked on but there's an art to throwing something on and having it look this good.

MaxMara

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Always come back to the comfies, especially at MaxMara. I like the idea of wearing all one color but just in different shades. It's easy; throw on all one color, all of your coziest clothes and you're out the door. Nothing else to report except that I want to keep a mental note of this particular idea.

Trussardi

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You don't see a lot of layering in these "bohemian" styled collections. I'm sure calling Trussardi's collection "bohemian" is a cop out, but there are some late 60s influences here, some 70s influences from the pant suit and the cognac gloves. I like the mix of English country side as well. Lots of florals, beanies, the roll necks, the little riding boots, and the loafers.

Vionnet

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That first gown reminds me of a skirt I had when I was a kid. It's sort of faded from my memory at this point, like trying to remember a dream at the end of the day. But the colors are what's reminding me of it all. There's some nostalgia here, as always with Vionnet since it's such a richly historic brand. I'm always reminded of elegance and classicism without being too boring or irrelevant or too in the past at Vionnet.

Rossella Jardini

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If I am not this chic lady when I'm older then something went wrong. Number one, this presentation is great. Just casually photographing an elderly art gallery owner, living in New York City for decades. She owns tons of vintage clothing and lounges in the first look. She's an eccentric, obviously, look at that pink blouse. This is why I love fashion. There's a story here and I can create a character and live in a fantasy for a minute.