When I think of Ann Demeulemeester, I think of black combat boots, matching all-black outfit. Those are still here in her autumn/winter collection but with this added sense of romance. All classic elements of romance but they're called classics for a reason: ruffled collars, flowing whites, fur, unkept hair, loose silhouettes, pink!
A.P.C.
The whole Vetements/Balenciaga-drap/wrap-your-coat-around-your-neck-and-shoulders thing is kind of interesting but I think at A.P.C. it genuinely looks cool and effectively does what it sets out to do: evoke a feeling of effortlessness. And that color of the denim on top of the camel is exactly what I'm looking forward to not just in the winter but for this spring as well. And the utilitarian-colored look on the right is perfect as well. It's uniform, it's easy, it's got a sense of put-togetherness. How many dashes can I use in this paragraph.
Balenciaga
I am excited for Demna Gvasalia at Balenciaga. When a new designer comes to a very old and historic house like Balenciaga, they go through the archives. It's very clear what elements Gvasalia took from the house's archives: pure elegance, massive couture shapes (even in the sweaters and the coats - and even, in a way, in those shopping bags). And I like that there isn't a huge mix of "the old couture shapes" and "new, young styling". It's a pure homage to Cristbóbal.
Carven
I mean this colors are my jam. Obviously. And we all know I love a good contrast. And that print is a minimalists' wet dream. The silhouettes are masculine and powerful but those colors bring it right back down to a more emotional and youthful feeling.
Chanel
Not the most exciting Chanel collection, but possibly the most comfortable? I mean, you can't be wearing leather and constricting clothes and whatnot when you're headed to space, can you? Roomy trousers, oversized tweed pinafores, low-heeled boots; it's classic Chanel except in space, escaping the turmoil of today.
Dries Van Noten
I have been a fan of Dries for years and years. I've stayed devoted because for some reason, I love the color and print play even though throughout my teen years I was faithful to all black and now I love blush tones. As I've grown older, I've learned to appreciate the maturity to Dries' clothing. There's a longevity to his designs, which is evident in this specific collection see as it's his 100th show (featuring some of the best models of the past 20 years). Although there's a holographic skirt-suit and loud prints, this autumn/winter collection is full of minimal classicism that will last for years to come. (Also who's excited for the Dries documentary!?)
Ellery
As I'm sure I've mentioned before, I love this new raw, minimal, abstract aesthetic that seems to be taking over Instagram. Colors like mustard, cherry red, camel, dark denim blue, and lots of black, white, and beige are flooding cool girls' Instagrams from left and right. Simple shapes, cropped, flared trousers, block-heeled ankle boots, fringe, crochet, linen, maybe some faux fur in the winter are all the elements you'll need to complete the look. And maybe a few pieces from Ellery. like the earrings, said camel suit, all of the last featured look. It's like these girls stole an art professors wardrobe and made it cool by listening to Frank Ocean.
Givenchy
Au revoir, Ricardo Tisci. While we wait for the new creative director to make their debut, the house of Givenchy put together a sort of capsule collection of Tisci's greatest hits from his 11 year reign. I think this was a great idea during the lull between designers. Celebrate the past, recognize it's greatness, and cleanse the palette for the new kid by throwing so much of one aggressive color in your face that you'll be ready for whatever comes next.
Lanvin
One of my favorite collections from Paris, Lanvin did what I love most: black, pointed toe combat boots mixed with a blush pink chiffon dress. Some might say this collection is boring; because Alber Elbaz isn't at the house anymore. But what matters is that the elegance and the Parisian attitude are there. And they sure are.
Maison Martin Margiela
This is reasonable pulled back compared to other Margiela shows under John Galliano. But that slightly off feeling is still here. And what would a Margiela show be without the Tabi boots? They were the first shoe to make me perk up, as they should. I like the looseness of this collection: the oversized pant suit, the long (LONG) sleeves on the turtle neck and all of the strings and scarves being whipped around as the models head down the runway.
Nehera
It's that same minimal, raw, abstract and organic look. The granny in me is telling you, it's all over Instagram, it must be cool. And it does look cool; it looks effortless which will always be something everyone always wants. But there's something put together about this mini-trend. Because these girls - and Nehera's women - are wearing blazers and turtle necks and are strict about their abstract earrings. Maybe we've found the happy medium between put together and effortlessness.
Vanessa Seward
Oh how I do love Vanessa Seward's love for 70s and 40s silhouettes. I really don't have much to say here other than I really do damn love this collection. Because it's sexy - the blazer dress, the tights, the platform heels! It's masculine - the high necks, the collared shirt with the sweater vest! This gal does it all.