This is Americana. When I think of American fashion, I think of Ralph Lauren and Calvin Klein. Seeing as Raf Simons is Belgian by birth and French by aesthetic, I was curious to see his take on the iconic American brand. Of course there's the obvious details of the American flag wrap skirt (so elegantly draped underneath the floral duster coat), the cowboy boots on guys and gals, and the denim on denim looks. But there's also the colors. The primaries and their friends were mainly used: red, blue, yellow, green; and somehow that seems very American. Maybe because it's simple and America was supposed to be a simple country: speak whatever language you please, pray to whomever god you chose. And the quilted coats. Oh my gosh I need one. There's even something very Americana about that too. It feels very Betsy Ross, somehow? I feel like she'd sew up a mean quilt for obvious reasons. I'm also drooling over the very literal quilted lining in the men's jackets.
Cinq à Sept
Slowly becoming one of my most looked forward to shows during the fashion month, Cinq à Sept showed a wonderfully kitsch collection. Part sexy librarian with the cardigans, part Instagram model with the fishnets. Seventeen year old me wouldn't believe I'm saying this but I love the idea of chucking on socks underneath sandals, on top of tights, throw on a floral skirt, and mix match a sweater. There's something calming about wearing all of your favorite pieces all at once. I've been reading Man Repeller for too long.
Ulla Johnson
This is CHIC to me. I need to own a velvet jumpsuit with a plunging neck line. You can lounge in it for the ultimate Absolutely Fabulous moment or wear it out at night. Actually that's what I love about the majority of Ulla Johnson's collection. Gotta look glamorous but comfort is just as much an important priority.
Jill Stuart
Give me dark, give me Gothic, give me slight Edwardian. As much as I love pink and cream and chiffon, I do love a bit of navy blue, black, blood red, and lots and lots of velvet and lace. It's hard not to make 19th century fashion look costume-y or over the top. But at Jill Stuart, there's a lady of the night kind of vibe. And there's something so sexy about these clothes even when there's zero skin showing. That's power.
Alexander Wang
This feels like pure A-Wang to me. It's reminding me of his 2009/2010 collections. All black and very dramatic, not a lot of a sports wear influence. It's sexy, it's boyish, young, and dramatic. The Alexander Wang girl could definitely mess you up. And here I feel like she's a little more grown up than the girl in the past collections. Sportswear is a young person's game. So now she's wearing a tailored blazer, button downs, sexy, sky high leather boots. Wang as matured and so has his lady.
Dennis Brasso
Fur is sexy, okay. Yes, the first thing on my mind should have been oh is that real? But it wasn't, alright. It was wow this is sexy. It's been done over and over again: the 40s vibe with the satin and the fur and the slinky dress thing. But I don't know, I'm not tired of it yet. Throw in a very on trend piece with the fishnet tights (in blacks, nudes, and reds) and re-work it into a turtle neck and it's brought up to today. And, hello, I love maps. Look at that map dress.
Naeem Khan
I like the idea of this being a hodge podge of a collection. Like a chic granny threw on all of her iconic pieces. Because there's something elderly about this collection. It's sexy without showing a lot of skin (save for that topless look - but that suit is classic). It's got a maturity to it. A 20-something woman generally wouldn't wear a floor length, one shoulder, red gown with a cape with layers of pearls. These ladies have years behind them and I like seeing that in New York amongst all of the Jeremy Scotts and Rodartes.
Samuji
Despite all of what I said just above, the youthful energy at Samuji is very interesting. I feel like this is how bloggers and Instagrammers are dressing. You've got your token velvet pieces, your oversized sweaters, the ironic beret/beanie, a slouchy t-shirt and a glittery pair of rock 'n roll pants. The entire collection feels like I stepped inside of a young, trendy, Scandinavian blogger's wardrobe and no, I'm tired of seeing that.