Balenciaga
Nicholas Ghesquiére took a very minimalistic and feminine turn at Balenciaga. We're so used to seeing crazy proportions that only seem to be relevant to fashion editors during the fashion month (ahem, Anna Dello Russo). But Nicholas toned it down with softer colors and easy silhouettes. A very nice surprise.
Céline
So many people were confused by Phoebe Philo's Céline collection. I'm not overly thrilled with it all, but I get it. I understand the Céline girl. She's definitely comfort before look. I love the idea of going to work or walking around in pants that feel like satin pajamas. I get a very luxurious and elegant vision here. Like the woman who inspired this collection was a New York socialite who just sat around and looked beautiful in her satin night gowns and robes. And of course, her fuzzy slippers. I like the humor with the fuzzy stilettos but what I don't care for are the fuzzy sandals. Just no. I also wish Phoebe would have made some more of those tromp l'oeil shoes in different colors because making just white ones isn't enough.
Chloé
Oh oui, Chloé. My favorite and what I most look forward to during Paris. Chloé is currently celebrating her 60th birthday this year so the show was sort of an homage to the house. Even the Chloé founder Gaby Aghion was sitting in the front row for the first time in years. I love the Chloé girl, I really do. She mixes very feminine pieces: the skirts and pink chiffon and glitter and many, many ruffles, with masculine pieces: trousers, boxy jackets, mid-thigh shorts and even a track suit. The homage was seen in the attitude: a very free and girlish but very masculine woman strutting her stuff in Paris.
Christian Dior
I was more excited for Raf Simons ready-to-wear Dior debut than for Hedi Slimane's Yves Saint Laurent - or, sorry, I mean Saint Laurent Paris debut (which I was not thrilled about). After that incredible couture collection that gave me chills, I knew Raf was ready to bust out some phenomenal prêt-à-porter. Very Dior with the dresses at the end and the shoes (oh my goodness, those shoes). I love the satin tie around the model's necks at the beginning. It was also very Raf; maybe too much Raf, though. Metallic fabrics and elegantly draped tops over tailored shorts created a nice balance.
Dries van Noten
One day I just up and like Dries van Noten and I never looked back. I'm not sure what it is about Dries' work that I enjoy so much. Maybe it's the laziness and nonchalant vibe from each collection. No matter what season, the girls always look so cool. Especially for spring 2013 as there's a total early 1990s grunge feel. Kurt Cobain and Courtney Love go to Paris Haute Couture fashion week. Plaid chiffon with rose applique skirts and pointed toe black and white check heels. Courtney never looked so clean and chic.
Givenchy
I'm so happy that Riccardo Tisci toned it down from last season. God, what a mess. It was way too harsh and in your face and forced. I was so thrilled to see soft blues, satin blacks and whites for spring after being tucked in all of that leather. The Givenchy girl needed some soft, cool jersey dresses and plastic shoes.
Haider Ackermann
Haider Ackermann is so big now but still so underrated. I don't think we understand how great Ackermann is. To be able to make a spring collection out of the darkest colors on the color wheel look fresh and clean and light is true design genius. I love to wear navy and black and different shades of grey during the spring and Haider Ackermann doesn't make me feel bad about it.
Valentino
Other than Chloé I think my second favorite house is Valentino. Maria Grazia and Pier Paolo have made Valentino into a young brand again with the button up collars and school girl effect. But they also keep the aesthetic that Valentino Garavani left (and sometimes still comes back to despite being "retired" for six years). They mix the luxurious elegant, grown up woman from Garavani with a shyer, newer, younger girl.