Chloé
A much better collection from Miss Clare Waight Keller. I felt like were back in the Phoebe Philo days at Chloé and that's a good thing since Miss Philo created such a vibe for the house during that time. This was Chloé: the care free, girly/tomboy and chic woman the house has become to be but it was also Clare: knits and jackets. The jackets brought in what Keller described a "British sportswear" look. Mixed with the pretty dresses and colors you have a winning collection. The only thing that bothers me is the odd proportions. The over sized sweaters paired with shorts that have had the living day lights stretched out of them aren't too flattering on most people.
Christian Dior
Another better collection from a new comer. Bill Gayten's debut collection for Dior was a terrible Haute Couture collection but he has since then redeemed himself. However, I can't help but feel that he is designing things he doesn't like. I don't feel any love or care into these clothes. If I were to talk to him personally about the collection, I could just see his eyes glazing over and hear some repetitive adjectives.
Dries Van Noten
Like I've said before probably many times, I'm not a print person. But there's always something about Dries Van Noten that gets me. I've realized that if you take each seperate piece from the collection, every one is an icon on it's own. In previous fashion weeks this season, Asia seems to be a recurring inspiration and there's some here but with a bit of Antwerp thrown in. Antwerp is the home country of Mr Dries Van Noten and he includes this with the working class look. The girls have some sort of loafers with smart jackets and everything seems to be comfortable and easy.
Haider Ackermann
It is quite refreshing to see some literal fall inspiration. Haider Ackermann took the colors used here from a tree outside of his home. The pretty leaves would fall and change colors as they do in the autumn. Mr Ackermann is also showing that he knows how to dress real women for real situations. Shortening things up from previous seasons, things aren't so drapey or as dramatic. One could easily go out and do her daily business with these clothes.
Maison Martin Margiela
There's always a dramatic moment towards the end of the show at Margiela but this time, everything was toned down. This collection was for a more mature Margiela women. Using typical colors for the collection, and a surprise pink from the awkward attempt at a mermaid skirt, the house created a smart look. The dramatic moment in this collection are the extreme roll necks. It'a about time someone created a fall/winter collection that is actually useful for the cold seasons.
Yves Saint Laurent
Stefano Pilati's last collection for Yves Saint Laurent was more Pilati than Saint Laurent. However, this isn't a bad time given the occasion. This wasn't much of a farewell collection like Raf Simmons for Jil Sander, but it was something to remember. A real dark cloud hung over the runway with a strict theme. Dresses looked to be made out of chains and leather floated around on every look. Leafed necklaces are wrapping their way around the model's necks almost pointing straight to their hearts.